Wednesday, 26 December 2007


Well I have been busy boys. Spent a weekend in Holland a Sinterklaas party then the amazing Dutch bouldering championship which was a great show. And general enjoy NL with Suuz. The next weekend it was my birthday I have come to that age were I am starting not to celebrate my birthday, great weekend out on Saturday to Bowden Suuz did sprung v10. Next day it was work coaching rock solid at Sunderland wall. Bring to this weekend weather was shit but some good wall sessions.
Over this period I drove 1500 mile to have 5 attempts on voyager, (only one dry session the spilt after 5 attempts shit)
Suuz first Christmas in the UK so think she is recovering from my mad family and are first Christmas in are house off to font soon.

Well Christmas has been and gone, currently waiting for Percy and smith to go out in the county.

Saturday, 1 December 2007

Long Day

Today was a pretty busy day an early start to get to climbing works for 10am; I was meeting Zoe for a coaching session to develop a training programme. Me and Darren rock up to climbing works and meet with Zoe had a good session.
Weather was looking good after we finished and so it was off to Burbage north, Darren had unfinished blocs and I want to get on voyager, we got out and the weather was a bit showery, the crag was busy. After a bit Darren was having a good day and was cleaning up, check his blog for details. I was making slow progress but then I spilt oh well, it was of to have a play around at Burbage west; Percy was putting on a good show.

Wednesday, 28 November 2007

Good Week in europe

Went out to NL to see suzan and go to her dad’s birthday party really nice do. Then it was off to font pick Darren up from the airport, in 4 and a half hours we were getting out are car to some wet blocs, which was shit as the sun was shining, oh well after visiting a few area we found some dry rocks, Darren and suzan got to work and I had a play around. Darkness cam and it was off to the f1 and then pizza.
Next day condition looked good and thinks had dried out a bit warmed up at bas then I went and did les beaux quartiers. Which was a really nice bloc then off to elephant which was still a little damp but still a pretty place. Dark came again and it was to get pizza again.
Tuesday morning woke to freezing fog, but after a coffee it lifted, we went to la canche aux merciers suzan did her bloc then I went to try the sitting start to fata morgana, the condition were ok but not perfect and after about 45 minutes I had hit the pocket a couple of times, so I will leave it for another day. Bit more climbing then off to NL.
Great couple of days check out the others blog

Thursday, 15 November 2007

Hi Fidelity

Well it must be grit season, changing your plans tosuit the ever changing weather conditions. Well todayI took Springer from behind his pc to come and spotvideo or even climb at Caley. After a quick warm upand a quick look at the top on a rope. Then I was upfor a go, well I found myself through the undercutmove and eyeing up the pocket. Well what the hell Iwent for it held it and shook my way to the top, whichwas a little damp. What a bloc, really pleased to do such a great gritline look forward to more grit action soonVid coming soon

Tuesday, 13 November 2007

The F*%king weather

Well Wednesday we went to the peak to climb on grit a 6.30 am start to get a full day only to arrive and find the peak in a fine mist, well it was off to climbing works, Percy and Sam were just finishing a new circuit. Please check out Percy account of the day in his blog, but this is my account.

40 blocs all done even the super gay slab, what can I say but I have still got it. As for Percy he must have had a big smoking session if he think he was moving smoothly over the wall.

Rest day Thursday and it was of the Caley to try my current project on Friday , after taking a bad ride early doors it took a bit to calm my nerves but after a few attempts I was making progress but got power out, so would leave it for another day.

Saturday Darren went to font and Suzan arrived for the weekend. Me and Suzan spent the Saturday chilling with a quick session at Durham climbing wall. Sunday me suzan and Springer were coaching rock solid a great session, with may on my group leading for the first time.

Monday grit stone action for me and Suzan, Suzan having a great day cleaning up on some problems she had tried a bit ago, but will let her tell you in her blog coming soon. Pretty impressive how quick she is coming to love the grit. We stay in a great hotel near the airport as she had I early flight and I was up for another session at Caley.

Suzan was off this morning, back to nl for a week or so, I was off to Caley, well I got to Caley to find it was piss wet, pretty pissed off, so I was off for to buy some tech.

Tuesday, 6 November 2007


Well it might be the start of the grit season
Friday a light session at Burbage in the morning with conditions starting to get better, This was before I gave my campus board training session to the British Bouldering team.
Saturday Suzan landed from nl. We had a pretty chilled day spending time in the house and in Newcastle then follow by Newcastle on the night time I think it was a shock for my Dutch chic just how little people wear and how crazy Newcastle people are.
Then Sunday I was off to Caley we all had a great day condition were good and all got close to are projects, then me suzan and Darren had a great curry.
Monday rain stopped play, then suzan jump back on her flight back to nl and me Darren and spring are off out on grit tomorrow.

Tuesday, 30 October 2007


Had a couple of hard training sessions today it was a more relaxing day out checking out a long term project that I seem to be making progress on, then I meet up with Aido, Darren and George at Bowden. Did some of the classic such as born lippy and the crack, but the day was made by good condition and many laughs.

Saturday, 27 October 2007

swiss fun

Successful trip to Swiss. Sorting out some things that I have been on before and doing some new stuff and found some projects for my next trip, So in a 5 day trip spent between 3 of the main Swiss bouldering areas I did 2 8b, 1 8a+ 1 8a and a couple of 7cs so not a bad trip. Weather condition weather cold to very cold having snow in the magic valley so it was pretty hard work, so I have to thank the duck for the down in my jackets and sleeping bag
This was suzan first trip in the scarpa shoes, think its far to say that she is know fully into the scarpa team loving climbing in them.

This week I have shipped the last of the e9 clothes, set Sunderland bouldering wall and just got back from a session out bouldering in the north york moors.

Friday, 12 October 2007

interesting week

Well had a couple of really hard training session and my finger seems to be coping well with the training.

On Tuesday I was in Dublin doing a boot demo, these things can either be a great success or a bit flat, its fair to say that this was a good one, looked people really enjoyed trying the shoes on.

Been route setting today at Sunderland wall so I am just relaxing an planning my day out tomorrow.

Tuesday, 9 October 2007

Has Winter started

Well after a busy week, it was to be a climbing packed weekend. Was this to be the start of the grit session, Suzan landed at Doncaster so it was to be a day out in the peak what more can a girl want for her birthday. Blue sky all around so after a quick coffee it was to the Burbage valley to check out the conditions, which where shit so it turned out to be more of a sun bathing day than anything, but after a few moody moments from myself it was off to Earl, this journey took for ever, although condition were ok, I was sick and just want to go home.

Saturday was a rest day, again hot and blue sky in Newcastle.

Sunday smith knock on are door at 9am , opened it to see rain. We went to the woods and it was not in great conditions, although I worked on my project making progress, Smith did the Yorkshireman again and Suzan did crouching wall so not bad for a damp day.

Monday off to Caley to have a look at hi Fidelity , well to are shock the crag was mainly well, so I still dropped rope down and had a quick play looks like a great bloc and can not wait to get back on it.

Tuesday, 2 October 2007


Well it was off to camp for a meeting with camp Italy and some of the UK shop buyers, Also we were going to get in a little climbing in.

Well we had a long day on Friday looking a product and giving feedback a very interesting meeting, then that night we had a great meal. The next day it was off to mello a little wet, but we climbed a little, then the next day is was off to do a few sports route near lecco. That night I got a flight back to see suzan in nl and after a fun back day with suzan I arrived back in the uk for a bit.

Well today I have been sorting out e9 and snap deliveries then tonight I had a hard session at the wall so the finger is well on it way to been back to normal.

Thursday, 27 September 2007

away from uk

Been away from the uk for 10days, splitting the time between Amsterdam and font, Had some great training session in Amsterdam with Suzan and some fun finding my way around Holland to meet up with people both friends and work related. Then Last weekend me, Suzan, Smith and Darren went to font well for a change we got no rain, although it was super hot and sweaty, although we all got a few things done, however after meeting up with Bart Mr 7 and 8s himself, I hurt my finger putting an end to my climbing for the weekend. However the other still had a good day.

So the rest of this week its been doing gym work but I did climb last night and had not pain from my finger so that’s good news. I am off to Italy tonight to meet up with the guys from camp and some of the uk buyer hope we get some route in.

Well of to the gym in s bit with suus.

Saturday, 15 September 2007


Well its been a busy 10 days since the last time I blogged I finally finished my e9 selling session. Just waiting for the final orders to come in.

Also the Earl family lost my great Auntie Betty anyone that knows me or my family will know what a great lady she was and even at the age of 84 she still loved her tec.

However one day later my sister had her second child Libby, both of them are home and well.

Over most of this period Suzan was over, after picking her up from the airport we head to Yorkshire grit meeting up with Sam and Lu, after climbing for a couple of hours it became way to hot for grit. It was then off to do a bit of ikea shopping for are house. Next day smith was up early and we meet him at Bowden condition were prefect and it seemed like smith was going well, Suzan also doing Toffs and working Sprung. Smith however had to leave the crag empty handed as he seemed to drop the top of everything. ( a bit like me on his board). Well it was back to Newcastle to the take way. Next day was a rest day then the funeral. After the funeral me and Suzan went out to a new bloc in Northumberland, which was a nice end to the day. Suzan went back to nl the following day.

Since then I have worked and campused with the condition getting better all the time I am back in training. This afternoon I fly to nl then where off to font so let hope that team smith earl and dudink will have good conditions

Sunday, 2 September 2007

Scarpa Team Meeting

Well it was a pretty amazing turn out from the scarpa sponsored team, and the sun even made an appearance which was a shock to all after this summer.

The team arrived at The Mountain Boot Company’s head office (in Newcastle). Waiting for us was the MBC staff, the big bosses from Scarpa Italy and the head designer Heinz Mariacher.
After a spot of lunch it was down to work; Steve Roberts ran though the outline for the weekend. Then we had a product development meeting, a chance to discuss the recent new range of shoes and future products.

It was then time for the team to hit the warehouse, leaving the warehouse manager shocked to see his beloved stock leaving the warehouse without delivery notes.

The team left for Bowden in force; at Bowden the fun was sure to start thanks to having such a wide range of climbers in the team. As soon as we got to the crag the boulderers unleashed the pads, although there was none of that for big trad man of the team Dave Birkett. Dave was straight into the soloing, shocking both team members and the general public in his control and how happy he looks so high up, with a toothbrush in his teeth, cleaning off holds as he went.
The likes of Smith, Newman, Springer, Percy and Earl got stuck in to some of the classics while Katz and Dunning checked out other stuff. As always the girls were just getting on with going high, bouldering across the crag.

Well after are short session it was off to the Blue Bell Hotel for a well-deserved team meal. As you would expect from any meeting of climbers, a fare share of drink was dispatched, polishing off many bottles of red and then moving on to the beers in the bar, meant it was a late one for many of the scarpa team. Scarpa newby Andy Moir was probably the last to bed as he continued into the early hours with his one-man rave.

Early start for most of the team (Moir still in bed and not to be seen till early evening). It was off to the woods where Mr Dunne I think might have found his new love; as Earl gave him the tour he just could not believe the number of quality lines in Northumberland, like a mad man he set about dispatching many of the classics. Then it was a team attempt on the Nadser to give a true test of the shoes, smith put in a good effort as I guess he is not known for his slab skills.
Meanwhile the filming dudes were trying to fly on playing rudies with our team gymnast Leah.

Back to the campsite for lunch and chilling then a spot of golf thanks to Newman for bringing the club, although Springer’s swing was the best, hitting the coke bottle only centimetres always from smith’s car before rolling round the grassy floor laughing. Meanwhile, the Italians, Steve Roberts and the Dunne where at Back Bowden scaring themselves.

2 hours later the team went back to Bowden and Earl, Smith and Springer were getting involved with Born Lippy; Smith having an interesting time topping out as Springer had to put down the camera to spot as he looked as though he could die. Then a quick send of The Crack by the Earl in far from ideal conditions. Sam ‘big pipes’ Whitaker rocked up after travelling for 12 hours back from font: that is true scarpa love. After a couple more hours climbing by the team it was BBQ time.

But to our shock as we got back to the camp site, the CO of Scarpa, Sondrio was heavily involved in a volley ball match sliding into save his team points. Food was served thanks to Rosemary and Moir. Then it was the north v south football match. The north taking an early beating but pulled it back to win 10- 5. Special thank to smith for his own goal and Springer’s sensational double nutmeg goal from the edge of his own penalty area. The night continued into the early hours with techno spilling out of Steve’s TT and much fun on the slackline.

The vids
John Dunne: Hitchhikers Guide to the Galaxy (7a+)
Dave Macleod: Transformer LH
Andy Earl: Cave Problem (7c)
Lucy Creamer: Bad Company (6a+)
Martin Smith: Born Lippy (7c/7c+)
Leah Crane: Jocks and Geordies
Well all in all a great weekend: Scarpa styled the sponsored climbers yet again and the sponsored climber showed that they are worth it.
Cheers everyone

Big thanks to Chris and Darren for the vid and pics

Wednesday, 22 August 2007

summer break

Just back in the airport leaving nl again after my trip to Targasonne with Suzan and the Fronz (Suzans dog). Well this was to be are summer holiday lots of chilling and a little climbing. An appointment for us to check out this area for a winter trip.

We arrived at the camp site to great condition, well blue sky ands 25 degree so it was a sure thing on the sun bathing. But after a light session the first afternoon, the temps were not to bad in the evening.

Suzan had been to the area before so showed me around and we both got stuck in. I felt like I was starting to climb well ticking some of the easier classics and the eying up ome of the hard blocs. As always Suzan was more at one with the crimp, but also starting to get into high balling and finding the love for the sloper.

After a couple of days both our tick lists were looking good and still enjoying the mid day sun and playing ping pong and football on the camp, I think the less said about the ping pong the better.

Targasonne is sharp granite but our skin was holding up well, I have to say I think it a great venue for all from 4 to 8a+,

Some of the hightlights of the trip other than beating Suzan in the fun fight and getting a tan. Flashed an 8a and Suzan made fast work of another 7c,

Check out are tick list below.
Suzan 07/08/18 traite de demonologie (sitstart) 7c
07/08/18 - 7b (2-Go)
07/08/15 fucking machine 7b0
7/08/15 traite de demonologie (standing) 7b
07/08/17 - 7a+ (1-Go)
07/08/16 l'oeup d'alien 7a+
07/08/15 apnee juvenile 7a+
07/08/13 reve errance 7a+
07/08/12 l'aliene 7a+ (2-Go)
07/08/12 l'aquarium envole 7a+ (1-Go)
07/08/12 - 7a+ (fl)
07/08/18 pas cash 7a
07/08/16 l'oeuvrette 7a
07/08/15 to be or not 7a (fl) highish slab
07/08/13 - 7a (fl)

Me Date name grade Remark
12-Aug Nazgul 7c 2-Go Clem rit 7c
13-Aug Sing while you may (du fond) 8a 2-Go I shot sarconazy 8a Flash Psoas Hole 8a+
15-Aug Tarite de demonologie 7c Flash La beaute de la chose 7c+ 2-Go
16-Aug La beaute de la chose (da) 8a+ Flash Black bloc 7c 2-Go Black bloc 8a Flash
18-Aug Orgasm Machine 7c+ Jump Flagellun Daemonium 7c Jump

Thursday, 9 August 2007

Going Away

Well I am sitting in the airport about to go a trip with suzan, so I will fill in what I have been up to for the last week or so.

Last weekend I had a great coaching weekend with rock solid the junior club that I coach for we went to the peak and had great weather.

Then it was off on my tour of the uk with snap and the e9 summer collection. Each city visited I had a climbing session at, which was great training ending with a session at smiths board aka the Bingely board, it fair to say I got shut down but I am sure he will go in to more details in his blog.

Ok well about to get on my flight hope to tick some good blocs

Thursday, 2 August 2007


Well sorry for the delay in my blogging but i’ve been a busy chap. My girlfriend Suzan has been over. On her first day she competed in the British Bouldering Championships in Sheffield, winning the qualification round she looked strong but in the final the travelling from the day before and the lack of comps showed as it left her tired. She still came 4th in the final but was not happy with her performance. However I think she did really well for her first comp. It was funny for me taking a step back from competing and watching. Gaz become male champ and Katy ladies champ. Well done to them both.

Then we went back to Newcastle for a couple of days where we climbed at Shaftoe and the Woods. We were lucky to get some good conditions and do some nice bloc.

Then It was off the outdoor show in Germany for me, under my many roles as importer, salesman and sponsored climber etc, very busy for a work shy climber like myself.

Straight back from the show we spent several days in the Woods.Suzan got super close to the Yorkshireman and I was getting on with the traverse and testing out new products. The next time in the Wood Suzan did Cubby’s Lip super quick and I started to feel at one with the traverse. After a wall session, it was then off to Queens Crag and Rothley for a nice day out. Suzan has gone back to nl.

Well over the next couple of weeks I am mainly training and selling, I start my e9 and snap selling season on Friday. Then I am off on a trip on the 10th so something to look forward to.

Wednesday, 11 July 2007


After an early start I meet gaz at boulder uk, then he drove to the cave.
It’s a funny places to warm up, but after a bit of playing around I tried Clyde 8a+ after some good beta of the parry I did it pretty quick , nice problem. Then I did Trigger Cut first go, then it took me a couple of attempts to do Halfway House 8a+. Then I tried Directors Cut, which I would hope to get done by the end of the summer but it’s a bit of a pain with the 5 hours driving to get to the cave, but all the same nice day.

Saturday, 7 July 2007

Fun Week

Great week, I went to NL for the weekend to see suzan, had more time in Amsterdam so it was more chilled than the last couple of trips, for a county with no blocs they sure have good walls. Trained a bit at the walls and saw more of the city.
I arrived back just in time to get on my flight to Italy to go to mello, for a short trip I had one bloc in minded, how ever the sun was shining and I dropped the top of my bloc but it has to be said it was a good trip never stopped laughing thanks manly to Mr
Heydon. Oh well back in the UK and the weather is shit, I guess more training for me.

Thursday, 28 June 2007

Snap Climbing

Well i am very pleased to say that i will be working with the guys at snap climbing in france, on a sponsored climber deal and i am also with my company The County Climbing Company Ltd going to be importing the the great snap pads and other bouldering accessories into the UK. I have been testing the kit out over the last couple of months and think its great stuff. please check out the following links

Tuesday, 26 June 2007

New Bloc At Last

Well after a week of really funny weather I have been lucky to be trying the fastest drying bloc in Northumberland, I did the stand up two weeks ago and thinking it might go from a sitter I got up early several morning last week to work on the link, dragging out my Dad and Springer, but with no luck and at times shit conditions. The weather was set to be shit so I thought it would have to wait, but after picking Suzan up in Leeds on Saturday and having a nice day at Armscliff showing her around, it was back to Newcastle where it was pissing down.

We to wake up on Sunday morning to a grey sky but dry ground so, I dragged Suzan out to spot( well really she was up for it.) After a short warm up in a light drizzle, it was straight to work. With a couple of slight adjustment to my sequence I fell off the last hard move and unusually for me I was pretty chilled. Next go I was quickly into the last move trying hard, then pushing on into the pop to the lip then manteling it out. In the bag and with a spilt tip Blood Sport was born. Not really sure of the grade always hard if you spend a few days on things but I think in the area of font 8b.

Then it pissed it down again putting a dampener on the bbq at sSteve house later that night. ( wish I had, had my camera as I could have got some great shot of Moir and Steve)

Friday, 15 June 2007

Past 2 weeks

A busy 2 week, last week I a mainly trained and trained not really sure what for at the minute, did 2 new blocs at shaftoe, with still a couple waiting for me to get back on them. I also had a day out with the boss Steve Roberts to caley great fun even if a little to hot.

At the weekend I went to Amsterdam to see suzan, the flight was so bad lots of thunder storms around the airport, had a good weekend with a mix of climbing and chilling.

This week the weather has been shit in Newcastle, so I have trained and trained and done some work, think more of the same this weekend.

Friday, 1 June 2007

more mello than magic

More Mello than Magic

Well we went to Magic last week, me Suzan and Smith. Weather was shocking for the first two days which meant that we climbed very little but meant I could work on Never Ending Story as it was the only thing dry.

So we went over to Mello and the weather was great even a little too hot so Smith got his shorts on Suzan was bikinied up. We had a really good day, after this it was back to magic the weather was still so shit across most of Europe. We had a rest day and had some good fun check out the vids.

Then it was back to Mello this time great conditions and I set a couple of old projects to rest which is always nice, suzan was also on good form dispatching as well, and smith was getting close to a project.

After a long day we stayed the night in Mello, the next day we awoke to sun and again it was a little hot. I was tired suzan was bleeding but Smith was still up for it, how ever I think the condition where not good enough, so it was back to Magic.

I was up for Steffen Wolf but it was wet so I rested, then on the last morning just climbed some good problem I have done before, A great trip mainly due to the people and not the climbing.

Sunday, 20 May 2007

Week of work

This week since i returned from my travel just trainied and worked catching up after my trip. Next thursday i go out to magic so looking forward to that but imporant that i get some more training in this week,

Wednesday, 16 May 2007

A win at last

Two weeks ago I went to La Reunion to compete in the 4th round of the world I found temps of around 26 in the night and up to 38 in the day, it took some time to get used to as Newcastle is not the hottest place in the world.

The comp. Well I made it to the semi and then winning the semi doing 4 blocs in 4 attempts.

I thought that things could only get worse. In the final I felt good, doing all the blocs up to the last bloc. This left me in second place before the last bloc with Killien and Jerome having done the last bloc I was in the position where if I did the last bloc I would win and if I took a walk up Henman hill I would be 4th. Well to cut a long story short, I came out to the last bloc , focused and somehow I flashed it, my friend in the crowd went crazy. What a feeling having competed for 4 years, I have finally achieved what I had always wanted.

A great party followed which was the final touch to a great world cup.

This left us still with one week in this amazing place . allowing us time to get some good ticks in such as climbing, body boarding. canyoning, snorkelling and parapenting.

Then we had a long flight to Paris where I took the train to Amsterdam to see Suzan and we had a great time chilling and looking at the sights of Amsterdam, I can tell you their are lots of sights, then it was back to Frances for a business meeting but more about that later.

Home at last but not for long I hope .

Wednesday, 18 April 2007

New super bloc E7 7a or font 8a ish

Back from Swiss
It was straight to the project with Springer he picked me up at 8 and by 10 I had done it, What a bloc e7 7a or font 8a, the Magician was born. After a bit Springer had another play on the top and after a couple of attempts on the bottom he also did the bloc both thought it such good blocs Vids coming soon.

Swiss Fun

All in all a great trip, already looking at flights back out

Day 5
Back to Vecchio Leone 8b this time at 8 am. No sun but still warm. Warmed up doing the moves, after a couple of attempts I fell going for the break, after a 5 minute break it was in the bag. I had come out just to do this bloc I felt good and such a great problem. Then it was off to try and the straight up problem on the Marilyn bloc which i think is also 8b, that I had tried on the first day. It was in the shade still and i did the moves very quickly, after a couple of good attempts failing going for the good hold I rested thinking that I had missed my chance, with the sun coming more and more on to the all important pinch. Last go I found myself with the jug in my hand and making moves on the head wall then I dropped it. Not again. Totally powered out I sat and chilled in the sun and did some easy blocs.

Day 4
Felt tired from the day before but had some good attempt on Steppen Wolf 8b hitting the sloping top several time, then holding it and making the move to the good hold my foot popped and I fell. Shit After this I was unable to pull back on the start due to the Sharp right hand hold, So it was off to Bergamo for Suzan to catch her flight.

Day 3
Warmed up and did High Sprit 8b, thank god, then rested as the sun heated up the woods. Climbed with Suzan, then chilled in the sun for a bit till it dropped behind the hills and back to the blocs, I tried the river bed bloc, but it was still so warm, it was ripping my skin, I did it 2 section then I left it for cooler conditions. Then I went up to try Steppen Wolf 8b, I did all of the moves quickly and took a good fall of the top. I left if for the next day.

Day 2
We arrived at Magic in the afternoon, I was straight off to try a bloc that I had seen on the last trip. After 30 minutes or so I was falling off the finishing hold, pooh. Would leave it for the next day.

Day 1
I went to try Vecchio Leone only to find it in the sun with temps around 25-30 C, after 3 or 4 attempts I left feeling low. I tried Marilyn Monroe 8a which I did in 30 minutes or so, so happy about that , I then set to work on the straight up bloc, which I did all the moves on but the sun was coming on it. So it was off to Bergamo to pick up my friend Suzan who was coming out for a couple of days.

Friday, 13 April 2007

e9 spring collection

well the good news is the spring e9 collection has hit the shops, for your local shop check out

Monday, 9 April 2007


Well this morning it was back to the high balls. After the long walk in, we found it to be more than a little windy , still up for it i start to top rope it again, still finding it hard work, after a bit i link it again on the top rope, springer was also making good progress. The wind was a real issue at the top as you move on to the head wall.

I pulled the rope and had a go, found my self through the the hardest moves, but the wind put me off and climbed down a little and took the ride, my knees were not so happy about that. Another go this time i felt better, got all the way up to the head wall , but the wind was to strong so again a climbed down a little the took the ride again.

That was it, with a packed week come my only window i have as Wednesday evening lets hope the weather holds.

Saturday, 7 April 2007

Fun Week

Back in the UK is not always motivational, but after a good trip to Swiss. I was keen to try Isla De Encanta in the south lakes so Monday morning earlie to catch it in the best condition, after a little warm up I start to work on Isla De Encanta, which it got to say I think is a good problem, after an hour or so have my sequences and was ready for a link, this bloc has one of the sharpest hold on even though it never cut the skin it makes the end of two tips go dead. After a couple of attempts I hit the break well but did not hold it, this happened a couple of times till I could take no more from the sharp hold. So it was off back to Newcastle.#

I spent the rest of the week training and planning my next trip to Swiss, next Thursday can not wait. Then on Friday I was back to try Isla De Encanta, this time with smith and Springer, warmed up well and felt good then I took a funny fall and hurt my back again, I was pissed off to say the least, my back felt better after an hour so but could not twist in for the big move on Isla De Encanta. But I still managed to do a couple of other blocs so not a totally wasted trip.

Saturday I picked Springer up with the plans of going and trying this highball arĂȘte that we had spotted in the summer. We got to the bloc I gave it a clean off on the rope then sent Springer off to find the way, he did a couple of moves then seemed to be chalking blank bit of rock then he came down, after a few attempts and shouting at Springer, I found that I had done many of the move 3 hours later and I had linked it on the rope. With not enough pads we left only to be going back on Monday to hopefully adding another classic high ball to Northumberland.

Sunday, 1 April 2007

Funny couple of weeks

Birmingham world cup

In good shape is some times not enough, with the British team and myself climbing and looking stronger than ever it was a shock just to get one man into the semi.
Personal this marked the end of a long and fun comp life, during the comp I took the ride off the top of the last bloc, falling badly left me with a bad back, if only I had held the hold I would have gone through but that’s comps I guess.

Pic thanks to gravity

That week I work in Aberdeen route setting, and then came home to train for a master’s comp at climbing works, I had a accident when training and hurt my back and arm, I went to the master not really going to climb but warmed up ok and got through to the final finishing 4th which I was pleased with after the week I had had.

The next day it was off for some swiss bouldering. Me and smith off to the tinico valley where we had 6 days of climbing on some great granite, for a few days. Over this period I did 2 8a’s and 2 8a + ‘s and dropped the top of one of the best 8b I have ever been on, think I will be going back very soon. This was good to be getting back climbing again after working hard selling e9 and getting over the comps.

Think we all had a great time, what more can you ask for great rock, great weather and some good blocs tick, both me and smith cleaning up on blocs minutes before we drove to the airport.

This had this effect on smith

Monday, 12 March 2007

Good weekend

Saturday i went out to curbar, with percy and lucy. warm up on the normal stuff then went why left high balling great fun apart from when you drop the top, percy not only happy with seeing me drop the top felt that he had to as well.

Sunday it was off high again , this time to moorside rocks to try super bloc, it was maybe a little warm up still i wanted to try it , after a couple of attempts i found my self high with the pocket and the undercut thinking about making the move, each time i would jumped off, then we went to burbage south just to get a bit of climbing in. then after all this the new pinky red circuit at climbing works

Thursday, 8 March 2007

End of work

This week i had my final couple of days selling, which meant that i could get back out on the crags, wednesday i was at Gear for Girls in Nortumberland which meant i could get back to woods to work on my projects and i made some good progress with the condition been pretty good.

Yesterday i had an appointment with v12, so i dragged Darren down to wales. After selling i popped into the cave, it was a little wet but always a great work out.

Doing Trigger Cut, Rock Atorcity and Luo ferrino all first go, then i spent some time working the middle section on Directors Cut, some thing that i got close to the year before last and i am keen to put to bed after birmingham so i think i might be spending a lot of April in wales. Then i tried In hell the lowest start to Rock Atorcity getting through the bottom in a couple of attempts i found my self totally powered out on Rock Atoricty, oh well a fun day out.

Rest day today and off to the peak for the weekend.

Sunday, 4 March 2007

good weekend

Yesterday team training at the climbing works i did 3 rounds of the world, on some great new blocs set by percy and ian. Left feeling well worked.

Today i was coaching rock solid the junior climbing club at rock antics check out the birthday cake of one my juniors tasted good as well.

Friday, 2 March 2007

Weekend yes please

As a pro climber some would say that i was work shy, and normally this would be very true but with a full week of selling e9 and a very good boot demo at the Manchester Climbing Centre.
This on top of a shit loads of training to get into shape for the european championships in a couple of weeks.

This weekend i have a team training at The Climbing Works. bring it on, then maybe next week i will get out on the rock. hope so

Tuesday, 27 February 2007

New Vids

work work work

After bad weather over the weekend up north its back to another week of work. Yesterday i was out on the road with my e9 samples, today i was setting at sunderland wall then coaching tonight.

Tomorrow night i will be a scarpa boot demo at Manchester Climbing Centre, so that people can get in the new scarpa range.

Saturday, 24 February 2007

Busy week

Well its been a full on week, with a boot testing session at Climbing Works for the new scarpa range with cretain models about to hit the shops, at the end of next week.

Also been out selling the fall collection of e9 clothes, so been mainly climbing on plastic this week.
with some great problems at climbing works and boulder uk , it not to bad a way to spend your evening .

Saturday, 17 February 2007

Shut down

Me and springer went to Callerhues to try and repeat a newish 7c+, after a few attempts i found myself lost trying to get on top of the bloc. After a couple of really bad falls i left it for another day.

Callerhues is a great high ball venue on great rock well worth a visit.

Thursday, 15 February 2007

Blue Sky

Yesterday morning i set off to Sheffield hope to climb outside but the met office paint a wet and wind picture so climbing works was looking like the venue.

Almost at Sheffield with a blue sky and it was not too warm. May it was going to be the day for Careless Torque, me gaz and percy and the pads,(even the big one from climbing works) were off on one . After a brief warm up and percy lowered down and chalked the top grips, it was on. Second go i found my self stood up and going for the top moves that turn out to be not so bad and found my self standing on the top of one of the best blocs in the peak.
Done Careless Torque ground up pretty happy.

Then we did Big Air and a good hard session at climbing works , all in all a great day out.

Monday, 12 February 2007


Scarpa Boot Demo at Manchester Climbing Centre 28th FEb

Camp Harness testing session at The Leeds Wall 14th March

Team Training

Saturday was a bouldering team training at boulder uk. A comp style session of 2 rounds of 6 blocs. Sunday i was coaching rock solid the north east and cumbria climbing club, at the leeds wall. All in all a busy weekend then today i was setting at sunderland wall for the monthly comp.

Pic of smith get ripped out of his mind.