Wednesday, 18 April 2007

New super bloc E7 7a or font 8a ish

Back from Swiss
It was straight to the project with Springer he picked me up at 8 and by 10 I had done it, What a bloc e7 7a or font 8a, the Magician was born. After a bit Springer had another play on the top and after a couple of attempts on the bottom he also did the bloc both thought it such good blocs Vids coming soon.

Swiss Fun

All in all a great trip, already looking at flights back out

Day 5
Back to Vecchio Leone 8b this time at 8 am. No sun but still warm. Warmed up doing the moves, after a couple of attempts I fell going for the break, after a 5 minute break it was in the bag. I had come out just to do this bloc I felt good and such a great problem. Then it was off to try and the straight up problem on the Marilyn bloc which i think is also 8b, that I had tried on the first day. It was in the shade still and i did the moves very quickly, after a couple of good attempts failing going for the good hold I rested thinking that I had missed my chance, with the sun coming more and more on to the all important pinch. Last go I found myself with the jug in my hand and making moves on the head wall then I dropped it. Not again. Totally powered out I sat and chilled in the sun and did some easy blocs.

Day 4
Felt tired from the day before but had some good attempt on Steppen Wolf 8b hitting the sloping top several time, then holding it and making the move to the good hold my foot popped and I fell. Shit After this I was unable to pull back on the start due to the Sharp right hand hold, So it was off to Bergamo for Suzan to catch her flight.

Day 3
Warmed up and did High Sprit 8b, thank god, then rested as the sun heated up the woods. Climbed with Suzan, then chilled in the sun for a bit till it dropped behind the hills and back to the blocs, I tried the river bed bloc, but it was still so warm, it was ripping my skin, I did it 2 section then I left it for cooler conditions. Then I went up to try Steppen Wolf 8b, I did all of the moves quickly and took a good fall of the top. I left if for the next day.

Day 2
We arrived at Magic in the afternoon, I was straight off to try a bloc that I had seen on the last trip. After 30 minutes or so I was falling off the finishing hold, pooh. Would leave it for the next day.

Day 1
I went to try Vecchio Leone only to find it in the sun with temps around 25-30 C, after 3 or 4 attempts I left feeling low. I tried Marilyn Monroe 8a which I did in 30 minutes or so, so happy about that , I then set to work on the straight up bloc, which I did all the moves on but the sun was coming on it. So it was off to Bergamo to pick up my friend Suzan who was coming out for a couple of days.

Friday, 13 April 2007

e9 spring collection

well the good news is the spring e9 collection has hit the shops, for your local shop check out

Monday, 9 April 2007


Well this morning it was back to the high balls. After the long walk in, we found it to be more than a little windy , still up for it i start to top rope it again, still finding it hard work, after a bit i link it again on the top rope, springer was also making good progress. The wind was a real issue at the top as you move on to the head wall.

I pulled the rope and had a go, found my self through the the hardest moves, but the wind put me off and climbed down a little and took the ride, my knees were not so happy about that. Another go this time i felt better, got all the way up to the head wall , but the wind was to strong so again a climbed down a little the took the ride again.

That was it, with a packed week come my only window i have as Wednesday evening lets hope the weather holds.

Saturday, 7 April 2007

Fun Week

Back in the UK is not always motivational, but after a good trip to Swiss. I was keen to try Isla De Encanta in the south lakes so Monday morning earlie to catch it in the best condition, after a little warm up I start to work on Isla De Encanta, which it got to say I think is a good problem, after an hour or so have my sequences and was ready for a link, this bloc has one of the sharpest hold on even though it never cut the skin it makes the end of two tips go dead. After a couple of attempts I hit the break well but did not hold it, this happened a couple of times till I could take no more from the sharp hold. So it was off back to Newcastle.#

I spent the rest of the week training and planning my next trip to Swiss, next Thursday can not wait. Then on Friday I was back to try Isla De Encanta, this time with smith and Springer, warmed up well and felt good then I took a funny fall and hurt my back again, I was pissed off to say the least, my back felt better after an hour so but could not twist in for the big move on Isla De Encanta. But I still managed to do a couple of other blocs so not a totally wasted trip.

Saturday I picked Springer up with the plans of going and trying this highball arĂȘte that we had spotted in the summer. We got to the bloc I gave it a clean off on the rope then sent Springer off to find the way, he did a couple of moves then seemed to be chalking blank bit of rock then he came down, after a few attempts and shouting at Springer, I found that I had done many of the move 3 hours later and I had linked it on the rope. With not enough pads we left only to be going back on Monday to hopefully adding another classic high ball to Northumberland.

Sunday, 1 April 2007

Funny couple of weeks

Birmingham world cup

In good shape is some times not enough, with the British team and myself climbing and looking stronger than ever it was a shock just to get one man into the semi.
Personal this marked the end of a long and fun comp life, during the comp I took the ride off the top of the last bloc, falling badly left me with a bad back, if only I had held the hold I would have gone through but that’s comps I guess.

Pic thanks to gravity

That week I work in Aberdeen route setting, and then came home to train for a master’s comp at climbing works, I had a accident when training and hurt my back and arm, I went to the master not really going to climb but warmed up ok and got through to the final finishing 4th which I was pleased with after the week I had had.

The next day it was off for some swiss bouldering. Me and smith off to the tinico valley where we had 6 days of climbing on some great granite, for a few days. Over this period I did 2 8a’s and 2 8a + ‘s and dropped the top of one of the best 8b I have ever been on, think I will be going back very soon. This was good to be getting back climbing again after working hard selling e9 and getting over the comps.

Think we all had a great time, what more can you ask for great rock, great weather and some good blocs tick, both me and smith cleaning up on blocs minutes before we drove to the airport.

This had this effect on smith