Wednesday, 18 April 2007

Swiss Fun

All in all a great trip, already looking at flights back out

Day 5
Back to Vecchio Leone 8b this time at 8 am. No sun but still warm. Warmed up doing the moves, after a couple of attempts I fell going for the break, after a 5 minute break it was in the bag. I had come out just to do this bloc I felt good and such a great problem. Then it was off to try and the straight up problem on the Marilyn bloc which i think is also 8b, that I had tried on the first day. It was in the shade still and i did the moves very quickly, after a couple of good attempts failing going for the good hold I rested thinking that I had missed my chance, with the sun coming more and more on to the all important pinch. Last go I found myself with the jug in my hand and making moves on the head wall then I dropped it. Not again. Totally powered out I sat and chilled in the sun and did some easy blocs.

Day 4
Felt tired from the day before but had some good attempt on Steppen Wolf 8b hitting the sloping top several time, then holding it and making the move to the good hold my foot popped and I fell. Shit After this I was unable to pull back on the start due to the Sharp right hand hold, So it was off to Bergamo for Suzan to catch her flight.

Day 3
Warmed up and did High Sprit 8b, thank god, then rested as the sun heated up the woods. Climbed with Suzan, then chilled in the sun for a bit till it dropped behind the hills and back to the blocs, I tried the river bed bloc, but it was still so warm, it was ripping my skin, I did it 2 section then I left it for cooler conditions. Then I went up to try Steppen Wolf 8b, I did all of the moves quickly and took a good fall of the top. I left if for the next day.

Day 2
We arrived at Magic in the afternoon, I was straight off to try a bloc that I had seen on the last trip. After 30 minutes or so I was falling off the finishing hold, pooh. Would leave it for the next day.

Day 1
I went to try Vecchio Leone only to find it in the sun with temps around 25-30 C, after 3 or 4 attempts I left feeling low. I tried Marilyn Monroe 8a which I did in 30 minutes or so, so happy about that , I then set to work on the straight up bloc, which I did all the moves on but the sun was coming on it. So it was off to Bergamo to pick up my friend Suzan who was coming out for a couple of days.

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