Andrew Earl

lots to say

2010-10-17T09:20:00.001-07:00

Well its been a bit since i last blogged, in that time i have been up to lots starting with work, the wall is still going well and expanding all the time.Then this summer me suz and smith went and had a bit of a route trip which i must say was a bit of a shock to the system, having on tied on for well over 2 year however by the end of the trip i was back in the 8 band just. Then i started training for the bbc and got back into comp shape just about then on the day on the second problem i hurt my finger. Which put and end to the comp and the rest of the summer.

For are summer trip ms and suz went on a road trip around europe looking at several area with winter in mind. Which was great fun stopping at some new area and visiting old projects and putting them to rest.

Well next weekend climb newcastle i

s two so where having a party and then its of to font for me, think this will be the last trip before are baby is born. So guess it will not be till feb that we will be away again .

Some pics from are trip

Sintra and Ash cloud hell

2010-04-25T08:34:00.000-07:00

Well what a couple of weeks, I return from new bouldering venue Sintra in portugal. For more information on the venue check the following link.

http://articles.climbnewcastle.com/sintra.html

Me. suz and chris went to sintra for a 5 days break hooking u with percy and family and si and family. As alway with such a group it was a great laugh. With many great boulders on some interesting and sharp rock lead to some good climbing.

Well then the ash cloud took over the world, all are flight were put back a week and with endless looking for way of getting back to the uk. However it did mean that we could find some more of the blocs.

Check out some of the blocs

Real Rock

2010-02-04T05:11:00.000-08:00

Well after a wet and snowy winter, with bad trip after bad trip. I was so nice to climb on rock. I had trained hard for font which we got snow out of. I continued training for Swiss. Feeling in good shape it.

Think this was the cold trip i have ever been on. Ever morning well below freezing and many day not getting that much warmer. I really enjoyed this trip although at time i was very hard work staying warm and working problems. But so nice to have to try hard outside again.

Suz had a great trip saying she when out with several small injury's. She got some great ticks.

Think we have both come back to the UK hoping that we can continue climbing outside

Snow fun

2010-01-13T02:59:00.001-08:00

Well i guess with therest of the uk, i have done little climbing outside and more time sliding around on my bum. Apart from that i have been training hard as i am off to swiss next week.
So fingers cross that it not snowing to much

blood hell

2009-12-19T02:49:00.000-08:00

On wednesday night me and Suz drove to font, when we arrived on thursday morning to see lots of snow. However we started cleaning of some blocs. However over night it snowed lots i mean lots. So we got back in the van and drove back to newcastle. Very disappointing after training hard for a couple of problem, oh well that climbing i guess.

Accapi

2009-11-21T04:20:00.000-08:00

Well as the weather has been poor for the most of the uk, its been training time for myself looking for to a couple of trips, over the last month i have been training and recovering in a new product called accapi.

This has some amazing effect in way that after a training session, where i have trainned for 2-3 hours giving it my all i feel full recovered not after one day on but seven. find out more about it at www.accapi.co.uk

some fun pic and what i have been upto.

2009-11-06T08:52:00.001-08:00

Climb Newcastle Birthday

2009-10-24T05:08:00.000-07:00

Well Climb Newcastle was a year old yesterday. Been and interesting and at time very hard year, but all in all well worth it.

Yesterday we had a comp and an nice after party,today i get to rest after a busy week. And before next weeks meeting and then a full on week of setting.

Not so lucky

2009-10-13T01:21:00.000-07:00

Well after 2 weeks of hard training doing everything open handed in hopes of doing New base line. It was not to be with on day one waking up with a bad cold, so bad that i rebooked my fights and did not climb, suz had 3 days of action before are early return. Which i am sure you can find out more from her blog.

So its back to work, with lots of training and coaching session booked in the next few weeks. But now fixed on getting some hard ticks in this winter. So i guess the big news is that i have started using a new produced in my training, it seems to be having a great effect on my recover rate. More about it very soon

Having Fun

2009-09-19T08:10:00.001-07:00

Well been a busy summer, but winter and the bouldering season is just around the corner. Last week me and Suz were out in swiss. Having fun in Magic Woods, its been a couple of year since i have been and things have changed so many more people the camp site has wooden building not sure why, not sure if its for the best. However we still had a good time i did River Bed which i tried last time i was out and really the last thing i wanted to do, However since doing that early in the trip i start playing on New Baseline which i am hoping to go back and do later in the month. Suz also as ever climbing well, doing a couple of 7c with ease. Then she got suck into Free for all doing in a couple of session. However the 6 days on, did have an effect on are bodies. Suz has hurt her shoulder and after a physio and a vist to the doctor to get strong pain killers it looks to be healing a little. And i just feel old but then again there might be a reason for that.

Free For All

River Bed

New Bridges

Magic Woods

Back

2009-08-08T10:48:00.000-07:00

Well rockland seems along time ago, Since i returned to the uk i have been working hard and training hard as well.

I got my new shoe from scarpa on thursday so look forward to getting them out and about. Today i finished painting climb newcastle so its all colourful.

Rocklands

2009-07-16T00:56:00.000-07:00

Well i am sitting in the airport having returned from Rocklands South Africa, and about to go to an outdoors trade show in germany.

Me, Suz and Smith were in Rocklands for the past 16 days. I have to say that it was one of the best climbing trip i have ever been on.

Rocklands has some of the best looking lines i have seen. The bouldering was so

varied on some of the best and most featured sandstone, i have climbing on.

Well it fare to say that we filled are boots on the trip with us just having the one full rest day. I think that the best send of the trip was by Suz doing her first 8a+ Tea with elmarie. Suz normally climbs well with in her power range. So it was good to watch her push her self.

As for Smith it was his first trip away since setting up the City Bloc in Leeds Did Armed Response 8b. But think he was more than happy just to be out climbing on the great blocs in the sun.

As for me well its been over a year since i got to the keys to the building that is Climb Newcastle. In that time i have been on several trips but this felt like the first one that i was not thinking about work and able to get down to the climbing. All in all i had a great time climbing, doing most thing i tired in a session, do lots of bloc up to 8b. Will be booking my flights back very soon.

Tea with Elmarie 8a+

Armed Response 8b

Green Mamba 8b

You Tube Vids coming soon

Light Camera Action

2009-06-13T06:47:00.001-07:00

Well been a busy week or so, training hard for south africa. Been back to queens with chris and have some good attempts on my project. but then i spend the next couple of session out side, with suz at the woods or out doing photos with Mark for his book. Really interesting going back on things for photos very hard work but, i think taking the pics is much harder.

2009-05-26T11:56:00.000-07:00

Great sandstone action , after a showery week in newcastle. Both Suz and me got a couple of good blocs done. Even with the weather been a bit to showery for Queens, i went and repeated Chris Graham Blocs at Hangman, two great aretes. Then worked all weekend and then today Suz went to A bloc near to newcastle and did the powerful arete. Check out the blue sky.

Out and About

2009-05-18T08:17:00.000-07:00

Weather has been pretty good up in the north east for the past couple of weeks, which has lead to a few good session enjoy the sun and the fresh spring air.

Me, Suz and Percy went to crag x had a really good session, work superman which i am looking forward to maybe getting back on tomorrow.

Then we went to Kyloe out the woods as the wind was so strong, where Suz did prime time sitting. Fonz not always impressed

I Had a rest day, then we had a sunny day out to queens with a bit of a Climb Newcastle team, had a good session on the sit start to arc royal. Below chris having ago.

Then had a couple of hard training session looking for the weather continue stay dry for more action this week.

Sorry Its Been A Bit

2009-05-04T11:42:00.000-07:00

Well were do i start i guess with a sorry for my lack of blogging, Things have changed in Earl world.

Climb Newcastle is going well and been getting out and about lots.

Starting with the wall i think things are running smoothly, mainly due to good staff and great marketing. Me, Chris and Suz seem to be keeping on top of the setting with a circuit changed every week.

Then climbing well great start to the year a trip to bishop that turned out to be a bit to hot to get on anything super hard but did lots and got health after getting run down by the building of the wall.

Back in the UK i tick off a few things in the lakes, yorkshire and worked on a few project in northumberland.

In April we went to font again had hot weather however still got things done, and had a great time. On are return we booked are flight to South Africa at the end of June, really looking forward to that.

Back in the UK Mainly training but the good weather pulls me away from the wall, with session at Queens, Shaftoe, Bowden. Still got a few project in mind so lets hope the good weather continue.

Last Week i repeat Arc Royal a really nice bloc at queens.

Well this week i think i am going to wales so fingers crossed that the weather might be nice.

Check out some pics of the first part of 2009

2009-01-01T22:32:00.000-08:00

Well another year has past, another year older and what have i got to show for it, well a

lot really.

So 2008 in the first 6 months saw me out climbing

lots as normal traveling around europe, the normal

life of a climber. Suz and Fonz moved to the UK to

live which is amazing. At what seemed like a time when it would just did not

stop raining. But we still managed to get out and

about.

Then in June i signed for the building that is know

climb newcastle. After 4 months work, it open its

doors to the public.

In that 4 month i tried to stay in

as good shape as possible, which was not always

easy when your stressed with building contractors,

almost cut your finger off with a grinder and working

14 hour days seven days a week.

In the last two months sinces we open things have

seemed to calmed down, starting to feel like i can

climb again, not always easy to find things in the UK

to motivate me when not in great form but over the

Xmas period i have started to enjoy my climbing

again.

Well so what is for 2009, well starting it with a trip to the states, so on 8th jan we are off

for just under 3 weeks. Then hope for lots of climbing and a little bit of work.

Happy New Year Follow the action on 2009 at www.climbnewcastle.com

or www.andrewearl.co.uk

Climb Newcastle

2008-11-25T10:40:00.000-08:00

Well some shots of climb newcastle
coaching room

Shop all a boulder could want

Centre section of the main room

Front door

Chalk free seating area.

New circuit every week, comp every 4 weeks next friday 12th decemeber.

Font

2008-11-23T10:07:00.000-08:00

Climb Newcastle has been open for over 4 weeks so it was time for me to leave and go on a short trip. So me and suz went to font for 3 days, just starting to get back in form, i was looking to just get a bit of milage in and hopefully some blue sky.

Well day one the sun was out but the blocs where a little wet so

after an easy morning working are blocs and a coffee, friction was good i got involved in a session with some locals and suz got some good links on her project.

Day two shit rain rain, but we had a good laugh.

Day three a great morning but the day before had left the blocs in shit nic. but both felt good. Neither of us got are blocs but mainly due to a wet hold on both.

Great trip

climb newcastle

2008-11-02T12:24:00.001-08:00

Well its been a bit since i last blogged. Today me and suus returned to a normal life out climbing in the lakes in great condition. As over the last four months i have been building climbnewcastle. Which is open so please come and check it out. And see what Andy Long and Rob Lamey have created.

Over this time i mainly trained with a quick trip to czech for a comp and a slide show and a great couple of days bouldering thanks to scarpa. But in the last 6 weeks the 14 hours days started and the sleepless nights.This meant little climbing or training, then i had a bad cut to my finger with a grinder. After this illness hit resulting in little climbing or training. However in the last week i started to get back into shape so let hope the weather will be good so i can get out and about. Also started booking flights so things are looking good.

Just like to say a big thanks to mum, dad and fonz for helping out at the wall and supporting me over the last 4 months. Then finally to suus thank for everything over the last 4 month from painting, cleaning, taking me training and be next to me when all was going wrong or right. Thanks

what a month

2008-07-28T09:00:00.000-07:00

Well its been a month since we got the keys to the wall. Lots has happened since then, leaving know just as a shell so we can start building and making it into a climbing centre.

This weekend me and suus took a couple of days off to go out with my family in the peak as you would guess we took the kids climbing.

Well just about to go back to the wall to start work again.

Trade Show

2008-07-20T02:57:00.000-07:00

Well this week i have been out at the Friedrichshafen trade show its fair to say it been a busy 5 days, selling e9 and snap. spending some time on the scarpa and camp stand. then looking at stock for the Climb Newcastle shop.

Well still at the show but just about to leave very interested to see what chris and the girls have got up to will i have away

Climb Newcastle

2008-07-15T06:29:00.000-07:00

Well i am open a bouldering wall in newcastle, this is something i have been working hard on for well over a year, with Chris and Darren.

We got the keys to the building a couple of weeks ago and been busy clearing it out. I must say its some of the hardest days i have ever had and the guys at climbing works keep telling me its only going to get harder.

I hope that climb newcastle will be place for all to train with are coaching room for the kids and beginners and those that want to improve. A training board and yes it will have some 50 degree section for strong. Then a massive bouldering room for everyone.

well please follow the action at www.climbnewcastle.com

bike

2008-07-15T06:26:00.000-07:00

Well been busy since mello suuz got a bike and it seems i spend more time on it than her. Must say its really good fun. Working lots but climbed out side a little when it was not raining in newcastle.

mello

2008-06-29T08:32:00.000-07:00

Last weekend i spent in mello with the team below

and the chic suus below

The weather was perfect for sun bathing and not great for climbing, but we did are best sending many high balls

And working on one of the mello blocco problems and enjoying the great valley.

On the last day conditions were a little better and i was able to complete the problem that i dropped the top of in mello bloco

back in action

2008-06-10T12:01:00.000-07:00

Well after hurting my leg earlier in the weekend i took to none climbing training. Then on sunday me and springer went and checked out a new bloc think it will have 4 high balls on hopefully the weather will hold and get them done this week.

yesterday hot hot hot in newcastle and a training session at Eldon square. the today e and Suuz went to the Bowderstone where Newman and adam were. good laugh did lots really good session. good conditions with a nice wind and i think enough left for another session.

Coaching

2008-06-03T03:44:00.001-07:00

Coaching at the a Arch Climbing Wall

On Monday 16th June i am doing a workshop at the Arch Climbing Wall in London.

6.30pm -8.30pm

www.archclimbingwall.com

june

2008-06-03T03:28:00.001-07:00

Good day at bowderstone.

well on sunday the weather was pretty shit, but after resting in the sunny saturday it was off to the bowderstone weather was ok when we arrived and had a good session doing lots, and very p for going back for the rest. As i drop the last move of one of the links. then it really started to piss down so off back to newastle.

Yesterday i was at sunderland up for a big session on about the second problem i heard a big crack from my knee, shit. well after a session in the garage and lots of ice hope it will be better before i go to mello.

May

2008-05-29T08:00:00.000-07:00

well what a month, at the start of the month Suuz moved over which was great no more traveling to and from amsterdam. Late in the month we went to Mello Bloco with smith and percy. It was as always a great event this time i was to give a slide show, which i must admit was a bit of a worried about, but with some of my vids and lots of springers vids and a set of percy slide and mac power i put together an ok thing. Well back to the climbing suuz did great and did 4 blocs, i did not to bad but still coming to terms with getting totally shut down by the super kid.
Back to the uk and me and Suuz went to wales for a couple of days. Also seem to be working lots setting and coaching.
Today been to shaftoe and did a new bloc to the right of blood sports, with a cool jump start. well and tonight i am off to the guide book launch at wildtrack.

New Snap Site

2008-04-30T09:47:00.000-07:00

Well are new snap site went live this morning, check it out.

Snaps full range of bouldering products are now available.

www.snapclimbing.co.uk

Broken

2008-04-24T12:57:00.000-07:00

A couple of weekend ago a did a comp at climbing works, hurting my arm and coming 3rd. so after 10 days or so i can say my arm is well on its way to recovering fully just in time for mello. Mainly been shipping snap pads the good weather has seen lots of them leaving the warehouse.
well i am off to london for a wedding this weekend so hopefully next week the arm will be fully fixed.

new bloc

2008-04-08T13:09:00.001-07:00

new shaftoe bloc

busy week

2008-04-01T10:57:00.001-07:00

Well its been a busy week or so since my return to uk, I sent out the new e9 Spring 08 collection to the shops, Fonz started to settled into uk life. Me and the spring set to work putting the new Northumberland bouldering guide out of date. Today i am in london been setting at the arch so just waiting to get my train home

great condition shame about the skin

2008-03-25T09:57:00.001-07:00

Well it was off to NL then swiss for a easter break me and suus have both had a busy couple of months work wise and planning for her big move to the UK. I arrived in nl pick her and the fonz up and it was off to swiss traffic was shit as you would think at this time of year, the car did not love the germany motor way hills, put did the job.
Well we arrived the next morning in Swiss and decided to climb straight away and check into are gite on the night time. Well I had a good first day polishing off a couple of 8a and suus got stuck into her project, she was motivated to mainly work hard things as she started the trip with a spilt. Well we head to are gite. We arrived the normal lady was out but showed us down to are flat which seemed already to have a couple of guys staying in. it turned out in my booking I put April not march so we where lucky that these great guy let us stay in there flat for the trip. Next day dudy was back on her project making progress I went to try electric ant. What a great problem, after 30 minute I had done all the moves and started trying to link it, well I had a really good attempt then rest. After 10 minute rest almost did it but some how was lying on the ground. On my next attempt trying to hard I spilt game over I think.Well then we went to cres had a play on a couple of things. Then next day I was still up for the ant an had it in my mind I would be ok with the tape so straight down the hill to the ant we went. Well I must have had 3 attempt and spilt again. I was pissed off to say the least. Well trip over climbing wise, however on the way out I did a cool bloc called tricky 8a. I spent the next day and a half spotting the dudy and climbing a little. Then we set off to nl mid afternoon coming across some of the worsted driving weather I have ever had. Then stopping off as I could not cope any more with the snow, then the next morning we had to pick up some butterfly for dudy job. But we ended up in a massive traffic jam but got to amsterdam in time. I have just returned from the vets as fonz is coming to the UK on Thursday .

Well all in all a great trip the climbing was not great but we had some good laughs and great weather

swiss vid

2008-03-12T14:03:00.000-07:00

great bloc in swiss

Amsterdam

2008-03-11T07:04:00.000-07:00

Well after just about finishing my e9 and snap selling trip, it was off to nl to see the chic. weather was shit but had a great weekend training and chilling, think that the pic tell the story better than i can

Chilling in Amsterdam

Dudy training

Think we suit glasses

Walking around dam square

Suuz feeling the weight training session

Walking the Fonz in Amsterdam

Back to work.
.

Better late than never

2008-03-06T14:13:00.000-08:00

Well 2 week ago I went to Swiss with Darren, Suus and Fonz. Well it was a pretty good trip, after finally got to NL as jet2.com cancelled my flight. But not to worry, we all arrived in Swiss to see snow. Thinking it was going to be cold but, oh no it was super warm, check out Suus blog to see how little she is wearing. But it did not seem to get in are way too much. Suus after a slow first day got going well doing lots of hard blocs, as for me it was a funny trip manly trying stuff alone, I did not get stuck into anything but still found my self doing 8 8’s flashing 1 and doing the others very quickly. Also flashed a couple of amazing 7c+. So not bad for 4 and a half days action. Darren had his first Swiss trip doing some 7b+/c. in normal Daz style. Also getting super near to the pillar. Oh well go trip for all.

Back in the uk after several day selling, Suus was back over for the weekend, I was still really busy selling or coaching so we mainly climbed at the wall, a good new set at durham. Suus went out with my dad and the lads and had a fun day out with the old guys.

Then this week I have been selling my e9 and snap all over the UK. Back to Newcastle tonight to pack as I fly super early to NL to see the dudy. Then we might go to Germany but let’s just see what the weather brings.

check out my new site www.andrewearl.co.uk

Pics and vid will follow in on my return cheers a very sleepy earl

out at last

2008-02-15T09:50:00.000-08:00

Couple of very busy weeks, well at last I climb outside I in 2008. Springer picked me up, we went to his last project I think it must have been -5 so it was of to kyloe out the wood, Bob had pointed out a line, so we walked in so cold it took some time to get warm after about an hour working it I was on for the link, dropping the last hard move and feeling like my hands were going to drop off. But next go I did it a great new 7c+ was born. Next day I was off to the woods with smith Percy and Daz condition were good so I had a play on one of my projects making some good progress.
That next week I seemed to work, with a trip to London setting at the arch climbing centre.
Last weekend Suus came over to the uk, we had a nice day out after finally find the blocs, I must say that the rock at Brimham in general is not great even though we bth did are blocs.On the Sunday we coached rock solid, then on the Monday back out on grit to a super bloc above earl. On this time perfect rock. Getting fully shut down on the warm ups I then flashed the 7c+ and did the 8a both good blocs a must. Suus did the 7c+ which was pretty impressive matching on the shit crimp.This week the e9 samples came so was showing over in the lakes and today just set at Sunderland wall so hope to get out on grit this weekend.

Climbing Works Circuit

2008-02-01T09:05:00.000-08:00

Scarpa hardcore circuit
Yesterday me and Springer popped down to Climbing Works. Meet up with Percy the aim was to set a hard circuit for men and women 10 problems each. Sound easy, well check out what happened.
As always it was a fun day out with Springer and Percy. Get down and do the new scarpa circuit.

shit weather

2008-01-14T12:37:00.000-08:00

Hey been back in the uk for a week been working lots and getting back into my training since my illness in font. Yesterday trained with the Newman on his board had a good session but hurt by arm today route setting at sunderland so let hope it feels better in the morning as it not great at the minute.

ill but having fun

2008-01-07T10:26:00.000-08:00

Well the ferry to Amsterdam went well nothing to report really. After picking the Fonz up it was off to font. Making great time weather was good all the way down only to wake up with a little drizzle that left the bloc’s totally wet, well the next day thing were looking up apart from the fact that suzan had the flu, with near perfect font condition on the few block that were dry I still finished the day empty handed. Then next day I was ill to oh shit. Well we had couple of days walking around the blocs looking at blocs that I wanted to try feeling so ill. We spent a fun night in the formula 1 on new year eve watching French TV and movies.
Next day we both felt a little better and it was off to 95.2 for some easy bloc action. Think we both might have done a little to much but still nice to climb on the bloc in the sun, again the next still pretty ill we went and did some early bloc and looked at this bloc had been trying to find for years.
Next day both feeling better looked out the window to see it tipping down with raining. Well fuck font and off home to Amsterdam on the way we stop off at a nice wall in gent and then continued home that night we watched Eastern Promise a great film although suzan may not have seen it all though her hands.
Next day both feeling lots better we had session at the central climbing wall suzan campused but still feeling a little ill I just watched and played with Fonz. I am a legend was the film of the night at the imax in Amsterdam the screen was so so big and the sound was pretty amazing well. Another trip over leaving the Suuz for 11 days and I am on the ferry back to the uk so lets hope the grit is in condition

Trying

2007-12-26T01:53:00.000-08:00

Well I have been busy boys. Spent a weekend in Holland a Sinterklaas party then the amazing Dutch bouldering championship which was a great show. And general enjoy NL with Suuz. The next weekend it was my birthday I have come to that age were I am starting not to celebrate my birthday, great weekend out on Saturday to Bowden Suuz did sprung v10. Next day it was work coaching rock solid at Sunderland wall. Bring to this weekend weather was shit but some good wall sessions.
Over this period I drove 1500 mile to have 5 attempts on voyager, (only one dry session the spilt after 5 attempts shit)
Suuz first Christmas in the UK so think she is recovering from my mad family and are first Christmas in are house off to font soon.

Well Christmas has been and gone, currently waiting for Percy and smith to go out in the county.

Long Day

2007-12-01T15:54:00.001-08:00

Today was a pretty busy day an early start to get to climbing works for 10am; I was meeting Zoe for a coaching session to develop a training programme. Me and Darren rock up to climbing works and meet with Zoe had a good session.
Weather was looking good after we finished and so it was off to Burbage north, Darren had unfinished blocs and I want to get on voyager, we got out and the weather was a bit showery, the crag was busy. After a bit Darren was having a good day and was cleaning up, check his blog for details. I was making slow progress but then I spilt oh well, it was of to have a play around at Burbage west; Percy was putting on a good show.

Good Week in europe

2007-11-28T10:33:00.000-08:00

Went out to NL to see suzan and go to her dad’s birthday party really nice do. Then it was off to font pick Darren up from the airport, in 4 and a half hours we were getting out are car to some wet blocs, which was shit as the sun was shining, oh well after visiting a few area we found some dry rocks, Darren and suzan got to work and I had a play around. Darkness cam and it was off to the f1 and then pizza.
Next day condition looked good and thinks had dried out a bit warmed up at bas then I went and did les beaux quartiers. Which was a really nice bloc then off to elephant which was still a little damp but still a pretty place. Dark came again and it was to get pizza again.
Tuesday morning woke to freezing fog, but after a coffee it lifted, we went to la canche aux merciers suzan did her bloc then I went to try the sitting start to fata morgana, the condition were ok but not perfect and after about 45 minutes I had hit the pocket a couple of times, so I will leave it for another day. Bit more climbing then off to NL.
Great couple of days check out the others blog

Hi Fidelity

2007-11-15T23:51:00.001-08:00

Well it must be grit season, changing your plans tosuit the ever changing weather conditions. Well todayI took Springer from behind his pc to come and spotvideo or even climb at Caley. After a quick warm upand a quick look at the top on a rope. Then I was upfor a go, well I found myself through the undercutmove and eyeing up the pocket. Well what the hell Iwent for it held it and shook my way to the top, whichwas a little damp. What a bloc, really pleased to do such a great gritline look forward to more grit action soonVid coming soon

The F*%king weather

2007-11-13T14:22:00.000-08:00

Well Wednesday we went to the peak to climb on grit a 6.30 am start to get a full day only to arrive and find the peak in a fine mist, well it was off to climbing works, Percy and Sam were just finishing a new circuit. Please check out Percy account of the day in his blog, but this is my account.

40 blocs all done even the super gay slab, what can I say but I have still got it. As for Percy he must have had a big smoking session if he think he was moving smoothly over the wall.

Rest day Thursday and it was of the Caley to try my current project on Friday , after taking a bad ride early doors it took a bit to calm my nerves but after a few attempts I was making progress but got power out, so would leave it for another day.

Saturday Darren went to font and Suzan arrived for the weekend. Me and Suzan spent the Saturday chilling with a quick session at Durham climbing wall. Sunday me suzan and Springer were coaching rock solid a great session, with may on my group leading for the first time.

Monday grit stone action for me and Suzan, Suzan having a great day cleaning up on some problems she had tried a bit ago, but will let her tell you in her blog coming soon. Pretty impressive how quick she is coming to love the grit. We stay in a great hotel near the airport as she had I early flight and I was up for another session at Caley.

Suzan was off this morning, back to nl for a week or so, I was off to Caley, well I got to Caley to find it was piss wet, pretty pissed off, so I was off for to buy some tech.

grit

2007-11-06T10:04:00.000-08:00

Well it might be the start of the grit season
Friday a light session at Burbage in the morning with conditions starting to get better, This was before I gave my campus board training session to the British Bouldering team.
Saturday Suzan landed from nl. We had a pretty chilled day spending time in the house and in Newcastle then follow by Newcastle on the night time I think it was a shock for my Dutch chic just how little people wear and how crazy Newcastle people are.
Then Sunday I was off to Caley we all had a great day condition were good and all got close to are projects, then me suzan and Darren had a great curry.
Monday rain stopped play, then suzan jump back on her flight back to nl and me Darren and spring are off out on grit tomorrow.

training

2007-10-30T12:26:00.000-07:00

Had a couple of hard training sessions today it was a more relaxing day out checking out a long term project that I seem to be making progress on, then I meet up with Aido, Darren and George at Bowden. Did some of the classic such as born lippy and the crack, but the day was made by good condition and many laughs.

swiss fun

2007-10-27T07:39:00.000-07:00

Successful trip to Swiss. Sorting out some things that I have been on before and doing some new stuff and found some projects for my next trip, So in a 5 day trip spent between 3 of the main Swiss bouldering areas I did 2 8b, 1 8a+ 1 8a and a couple of 7cs so not a bad trip. Weather condition weather cold to very cold having snow in the magic valley so it was pretty hard work, so I have to thank the duck for the down in my jackets and sleeping bag
This was suzan first trip in the scarpa shoes, think its far to say that she is know fully into the scarpa team loving climbing in them.

This week I have shipped the last of the e9 clothes, set Sunderland bouldering wall and just got back from a session out bouldering in the north york moors.

interesting week

2007-10-12T14:18:00.000-07:00

Well had a couple of really hard training session and my finger seems to be coping well with the training.

On Tuesday I was in Dublin doing a boot demo, these things can either be a great success or a bit flat, its fair to say that this was a good one, looked people really enjoyed trying the shoes on.

Been route setting today at Sunderland wall so I am just relaxing an planning my day out tomorrow.

Has Winter started

2007-10-09T03:01:00.000-07:00

Well after a busy week, it was to be a climbing packed weekend. Was this to be the start of the grit session, Suzan landed at Doncaster so it was to be a day out in the peak what more can a girl want for her birthday. Blue sky all around so after a quick coffee it was to the Burbage valley to check out the conditions, which where shit so it turned out to be more of a sun bathing day than anything, but after a few moody moments from myself it was off to Earl, this journey took for ever, although condition were ok, I was sick and just want to go home.

Saturday was a rest day, again hot and blue sky in Newcastle.

Sunday smith knock on are door at 9am , opened it to see rain. We went to the woods and it was not in great conditions, although I worked on my project making progress, Smith did the Yorkshireman again and Suzan did crouching wall so not bad for a damp day.

Monday off to Caley to have a look at hi Fidelity , well to are shock the crag was mainly well, so I still dropped rope down and had a quick play looks like a great bloc and can not wait to get back on it.

camp

2007-10-02T14:28:00.001-07:00

Well it was off to camp for a meeting with camp Italy and some of the UK shop buyers, Also we were going to get in a little climbing in.

Well we had a long day on Friday looking a product and giving feedback a very interesting meeting, then that night we had a great meal. The next day it was off to mello a little wet, but we climbed a little, then the next day is was off to do a few sports route near lecco. That night I got a flight back to see suzan in nl and after a fun back day with suzan I arrived back in the uk for a bit.

Well today I have been sorting out e9 and snap deliveries then tonight I had a hard session at the wall so the finger is well on it way to been back to normal.

away from uk

2007-09-27T02:17:00.001-07:00

Been away from the uk for 10days, splitting the time between Amsterdam and font, Had some great training session in Amsterdam with Suzan and some fun finding my way around Holland to meet up with people both friends and work related. Then Last weekend me, Suzan, Smith and Darren went to font well for a change we got no rain, although it was super hot and sweaty, although we all got a few things done, however after meeting up with Bart Mr 7 and 8s himself, I hurt my finger putting an end to my climbing for the weekend. However the other still had a good day.

So the rest of this week its been doing gym work but I did climb last night and had not pain from my finger so that’s good news. I am off to Italy tonight to meet up with the guys from camp and some of the uk buyer hope we get some route in.

Well of to the gym in s bit with suus.

Busy

2007-09-15T00:50:00.000-07:00

Well its been a busy 10 days since the last time I blogged I finally finished my e9 selling session. Just waiting for the final orders to come in.

Also the Earl family lost my great Auntie Betty anyone that knows me or my family will know what a great lady she was and even at the age of 84 she still loved her tec.

However one day later my sister had her second child Libby, both of them are home and well.

Over most of this period Suzan was over, after picking her up from the airport we head to Yorkshire grit meeting up with Sam and Lu, after climbing for a couple of hours it became way to hot for grit. It was then off to do a bit of ikea shopping for are house. Next day smith was up early and we meet him at Bowden condition were prefect and it seemed like smith was going well, Suzan also doing Toffs and working Sprung. Smith however had to leave the crag empty handed as he seemed to drop the top of everything. ( a bit like me on his board). Well it was back to Newcastle to the take way. Next day was a rest day then the funeral. After the funeral me and Suzan went out to a new bloc in Northumberland, which was a nice end to the day. Suzan went back to nl the following day.

Since then I have worked and campused with the condition getting better all the time I am back in training. This afternoon I fly to nl then where off to font so let hope that team smith earl and dudink will have good conditions

Scarpa Team Meeting

2007-09-02T11:58:00.000-07:00

Well it was a pretty amazing turn out from the scarpa sponsored team, and the sun even made an appearance which was a shock to all after this summer.

Friday
The team arrived at The Mountain Boot Company’s head office (in Newcastle). Waiting for us was the MBC staff, the big bosses from Scarpa Italy and the head designer Heinz Mariacher.
After a spot of lunch it was down to work; Steve Roberts ran though the outline for the weekend. Then we had a product development meeting, a chance to discuss the recent new range of shoes and future products.

It was then time for the team to hit the warehouse, leaving the warehouse manager shocked to see his beloved stock leaving the warehouse without delivery notes.

The team left for Bowden in force; at Bowden the fun was sure to start thanks to having such a wide range of climbers in the team. As soon as we got to the crag the boulderers unleashed the pads, although there was none of that for big trad man of the team Dave Birkett. Dave was straight into the soloing, shocking both team members and the general public in his control and how happy he looks so high up, with a toothbrush in his teeth, cleaning off holds as he went.
The likes of Smith, Newman, Springer, Percy and Earl got stuck in to some of the classics while Katz and Dunning checked out other stuff. As always the girls were just getting on with going high, bouldering across the crag.

Well after are short session it was off to the Blue Bell Hotel for a well-deserved team meal. As you would expect from any meeting of climbers, a fare share of drink was dispatched, polishing off many bottles of red and then moving on to the beers in the bar, meant it was a late one for many of the scarpa team. Scarpa newby Andy Moir was probably the last to bed as he continued into the early hours with his one-man rave.

Saturday
Early start for most of the team (Moir still in bed and not to be seen till early evening). It was off to the woods where Mr Dunne I think might have found his new love; as Earl gave him the tour he just could not believe the number of quality lines in Northumberland, like a mad man he set about dispatching many of the classics. Then it was a team attempt on the Nadser to give a true test of the shoes, smith put in a good effort as I guess he is not known for his slab skills.
Meanwhile the filming dudes were trying to fly on playing rudies with our team gymnast Leah.

Back to the campsite for lunch and chilling then a spot of golf thanks to Newman for bringing the club, although Springer’s swing was the best, hitting the coke bottle only centimetres always from smith’s car before rolling round the grassy floor laughing. Meanwhile, the Italians, Steve Roberts and the Dunne where at Back Bowden scaring themselves.

2 hours later the team went back to Bowden and Earl, Smith and Springer were getting involved with Born Lippy; Smith having an interesting time topping out as Springer had to put down the camera to spot as he looked as though he could die. Then a quick send of The Crack by the Earl in far from ideal conditions. Sam ‘big pipes’ Whitaker rocked up after travelling for 12 hours back from font: that is true scarpa love. After a couple more hours climbing by the team it was BBQ time.

But to our shock as we got back to the camp site, the CO of Scarpa, Sondrio was heavily involved in a volley ball match sliding into save his team points. Food was served thanks to Rosemary and Moir. Then it was the north v south football match. The north taking an early beating but pulled it back to win 10- 5. Special thank to smith for his own goal and Springer’s sensational double nutmeg goal from the edge of his own penalty area. The night continued into the early hours with techno spilling out of Steve’s TT and much fun on the slackline.

The vids

John Dunne: Hitchhikers Guide to the Galaxy (7a+)http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_1GTAZOwdvk

Dave Macleod: Transformer LH http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W6lTYxNaX5Y

Sam Whittaker: Vienna (7b+)http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lPDoFsSnCKU

Andy Earl: Cave Problem (7c) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vb6KQX6YPu4

Lucy Creamer: Bad Company (6a+) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2T3a-UaA9fU

Martin Smith: Born Lippy (7c/7c+)http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WhicI0y-JJM

Leah Crane: Jocks and Geordieshttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jRORQSGhSlw

Well all in all a great weekend: Scarpa styled the sponsored climbers yet again and the sponsored climber showed that they are worth it.
Cheers everyone

Big thanks to Chris and Darren for the vid and pics

summer break

2007-08-22T14:21:00.000-07:00

Just back in the airport leaving nl again after my trip to Targasonne with Suzan and the Fronz (Suzans dog). Well this was to be are summer holiday lots of chilling and a little climbing. An appointment for us to check out this area for a winter trip.

We arrived at the camp site to great condition, well blue sky ands 25 degree so it was a sure thing on the sun bathing. But after a light session the first afternoon, the temps were not to bad in the evening.

Suzan had been to the area before so showed me around and we both got stuck in. I felt like I was starting to climb well ticking some of the easier classics and the eying up ome of the hard blocs. As always Suzan was more at one with the crimp, but also starting to get into high balling and finding the love for the sloper.

After a couple of days both our tick lists were looking good and still enjoying the mid day sun and playing ping pong and football on the camp, I think the less said about the ping pong the better.

Targasonne is sharp granite but our skin was holding up well, I have to say I think it a great venue for all from 4 to 8a+,

Some of the hightlights of the trip other than beating Suzan in the fun fight and getting a tan. Flashed an 8a and Suzan made fast work of another 7c,

Check out are tick list below.
Suzan 07/08/18 traite de demonologie (sitstart) 7c
07/08/18 - 7b (2-Go)
07/08/15 fucking machine 7b0
7/08/15 traite de demonologie (standing) 7b
07/08/17 - 7a+ (1-Go)
07/08/16 l'oeup d'alien 7a+
07/08/15 apnee juvenile 7a+
07/08/13 reve errance 7a+
07/08/12 l'aliene 7a+ (2-Go)
07/08/12 l'aquarium envole 7a+ (1-Go)
07/08/12 - 7a+ (fl)
07/08/18 pas cash 7a
07/08/16 l'oeuvrette 7a
07/08/15 to be or not 7a (fl) highish slab
07/08/13 - 7a (fl)

Me Date name grade Remark
12-Aug Nazgul 7c 2-Go Clem rit 7c
13-Aug Sing while you may (du fond) 8a 2-Go I shot sarconazy 8a Flash Psoas Hole 8a+
15-Aug Tarite de demonologie 7c Flash La beaute de la chose 7c+ 2-Go
16-Aug La beaute de la chose (da) 8a+ Flash Black bloc 7c 2-Go Black bloc 8a Flash
18-Aug Orgasm Machine 7c+ Jump Flagellun Daemonium 7c Jump

Going Away

2007-08-09T23:34:00.001-07:00

Well I am sitting in the airport about to go a trip with suzan, so I will fill in what I have been up to for the last week or so.

Last weekend I had a great coaching weekend with rock solid the junior club that I coach for we went to the peak and had great weather.

Then it was off on my tour of the uk with snap and the e9 summer collection. Each city visited I had a climbing session at, which was great training ending with a session at smiths board aka the Bingely board, it fair to say I got shut down but I am sure he will go in to more details in his blog.

Ok well about to get on my flight hope to tick some good blocs

sorry

2007-08-02T10:17:00.000-07:00

Well sorry for the delay in my blogging but i’ve been a busy chap. My girlfriend Suzan has been over. On her first day she competed in the British Bouldering Championships in Sheffield, winning the qualification round she looked strong but in the final the travelling from the day before and the lack of comps showed as it left her tired. She still came 4th in the final but was not happy with her performance. However I think she did really well for her first comp. It was funny for me taking a step back from competing and watching. Gaz become male champ and Katy ladies champ. Well done to them both.

Then we went back to Newcastle for a couple of days where we climbed at Shaftoe and the Woods. We were lucky to get some good conditions and do some nice bloc.

Then It was off the outdoor show in Germany for me, under my many roles as importer, salesman and sponsored climber etc, very busy for a work shy climber like myself.

Straight back from the show we spent several days in the Woods.Suzan got super close to the Yorkshireman and I was getting on with the traverse and testing out new products. The next time in the Wood Suzan did Cubby’s Lip super quick and I started to feel at one with the traverse. After a wall session, it was then off to Queens Crag and Rothley for a nice day out. Suzan has gone back to nl.

Well over the next couple of weeks I am mainly training and selling, I start my e9 and snap selling season on Friday. Then I am off on a trip on the 10th so something to look forward to.

cave

2007-07-11T09:58:00.000-07:00

After an early start I meet gaz at boulder uk, then he drove to the cave.
It’s a funny places to warm up, but after a bit of playing around I tried Clyde 8a+ after some good beta of the parry I did it pretty quick , nice problem. Then I did Trigger Cut first go, then it took me a couple of attempts to do Halfway House 8a+. Then I tried Directors Cut, which I would hope to get done by the end of the summer but it’s a bit of a pain with the 5 hours driving to get to the cave, but all the same nice day.

Fun Week

2007-07-07T01:21:00.000-07:00

Great week, I went to NL for the weekend to see suzan, had more time in Amsterdam so it was more chilled than the last couple of trips, for a county with no blocs they sure have good walls. Trained a bit at the walls and saw more of the city.
I arrived back just in time to get on my flight to Italy to go to mello, for a short trip I had one bloc in minded, how ever the sun was shining and I dropped the top of my bloc but it has to be said it was a good trip never stopped laughing thanks manly to Mr
Heydon. Oh well back in the UK and the weather is shit, I guess more training for me.

Snap Climbing

2007-06-28T00:29:00.000-07:00

Well i am very pleased to say that i will be working with the guys at snap climbing in france, on a sponsored climber deal and i am also with my company The County Climbing Company Ltd going to be importing the the great snap pads and other bouldering accessories into the UK. I have been testing the kit out over the last couple of months and think its great stuff. please check out the following links

http://www.thecountyclimbingcompany.co.uk/

http://www.snapclimbing.co.uk/

New Bloc At Last

2007-06-26T12:08:00.000-07:00

Well after a week of really funny weather I have been lucky to be trying the fastest drying bloc in Northumberland, I did the stand up two weeks ago and thinking it might go from a sitter I got up early several morning last week to work on the link, dragging out my Dad and Springer, but with no luck and at times shit conditions. The weather was set to be shit so I thought it would have to wait, but after picking Suzan up in Leeds on Saturday and having a nice day at Armscliff showing her around, it was back to Newcastle where it was pissing down.

We to wake up on Sunday morning to a grey sky but dry ground so, I dragged Suzan out to spot( well really she was up for it.) After a short warm up in a light drizzle, it was straight to work. With a couple of slight adjustment to my sequence I fell off the last hard move and unusually for me I was pretty chilled. Next go I was quickly into the last move trying hard, then pushing on into the pop to the lip then manteling it out. In the bag and with a spilt tip Blood Sport was born. Not really sure of the grade always hard if you spend a few days on things but I think in the area of font 8b.

Then it pissed it down again putting a dampener on the bbq at sSteve house later that night. ( wish I had, had my camera as I could have got some great shot of Moir and Steve)

Past 2 weeks

2007-06-15T10:55:00.000-07:00

A busy 2 week, last week I a mainly trained and trained not really sure what for at the minute, did 2 new blocs at shaftoe, with still a couple waiting for me to get back on them. I also had a day out with the boss Steve Roberts to caley great fun even if a little to hot.

At the weekend I went to Amsterdam to see suzan, the flight was so bad lots of thunder storms around the airport, had a good weekend with a mix of climbing and chilling.

This week the weather has been shit in Newcastle, so I have trained and trained and done some work, think more of the same this weekend.

more mello than magic

2007-06-01T02:51:00.000-07:00

More Mello than Magic

Well we went to Magic last week, me Suzan and Smith. Weather was shocking for the first two days which meant that we climbed very little but meant I could work on Never Ending Story as it was the only thing dry.

So we went over to Mello and the weather was great even a little too hot so Smith got his shorts on Suzan was bikinied up. We had a really good day, after this it was back to magic the weather was still so shit across most of Europe. We had a rest day and had some good fun check out the vids.

Then it was back to Mello this time great conditions and I set a couple of old projects to rest which is always nice, suzan was also on good form dispatching as well, and smith was getting close to a project.

After a long day we stayed the night in Mello, the next day we awoke to sun and again it was a little hot. I was tired suzan was bleeding but Smith was still up for it, how ever I think the condition where not good enough, so it was back to Magic.

I was up for Steffen Wolf but it was wet so I rested, then on the last morning just climbed some good problem I have done before, A great trip mainly due to the people and not the climbing.

Week of work

2007-05-20T13:06:00.000-07:00

This week since i returned from my travel just trainied and worked catching up after my trip. Next thursday i go out to magic so looking forward to that but imporant that i get some more training in this week,

A win at last

2007-05-16T03:02:00.000-07:00

Two weeks ago I went to La Reunion to compete in the 4th round of the world I found temps of around 26 in the night and up to 38 in the day, it took some time to get used to as Newcastle is not the hottest place in the world.

The comp. Well I made it to the semi and then winning the semi doing 4 blocs in 4 attempts.

I thought that things could only get worse. In the final I felt good, doing all the blocs up to the last bloc. This left me in second place before the last bloc with Killien and Jerome having done the last bloc I was in the position where if I did the last bloc I would win and if I took a walk up Henman hill I would be 4th. Well to cut a long story short, I came out to the last bloc , focused and somehow I flashed it, my friend in the crowd went crazy. What a feeling having competed for 4 years, I have finally achieved what I had always wanted.

A great party followed which was the final touch to a great world cup.

This left us still with one week in this amazing place . allowing us time to get some good ticks in such as climbing, body boarding. canyoning, snorkelling and parapenting.

Then we had a long flight to Paris where I took the train to Amsterdam to see Suzan and we had a great time chilling and looking at the sights of Amsterdam, I can tell you their are lots of sights, then it was back to Frances for a business meeting but more about that later.

Home at last but not for long I hope .

New super bloc E7 7a or font 8a ish

2007-04-18T09:36:00.000-07:00

Back from Swiss
It was straight to the project with Springer he picked me up at 8 and by 10 I had done it, What a bloc e7 7a or font 8a, the Magician was born. After a bit Springer had another play on the top and after a couple of attempts on the bottom he also did the bloc both thought it such good blocs Vids coming soon.

Swiss Fun

2007-04-18T09:20:00.000-07:00

All in all a great trip, already looking at flights back out

Day 5
Back to Vecchio Leone 8b this time at 8 am. No sun but still warm. Warmed up doing the moves, after a couple of attempts I fell going for the break, after a 5 minute break it was in the bag. I had come out just to do this bloc I felt good and such a great problem. Then it was off to try and the straight up problem on the Marilyn bloc which i think is also 8b, that I had tried on the first day. It was in the shade still and i did the moves very quickly, after a couple of good attempts failing going for the good hold I rested thinking that I had missed my chance, with the sun coming more and more on to the all important pinch. Last go I found myself with the jug in my hand and making moves on the head wall then I dropped it. Not again. Totally powered out I sat and chilled in the sun and did some easy blocs.

Day 4
Felt tired from the day before but had some good attempt on Steppen Wolf 8b hitting the sloping top several time, then holding it and making the move to the good hold my foot popped and I fell. Shit After this I was unable to pull back on the start due to the Sharp right hand hold, So it was off to Bergamo for Suzan to catch her flight.

Day 3
Warmed up and did High Sprit 8b, thank god, then rested as the sun heated up the woods. Climbed with Suzan, then chilled in the sun for a bit till it dropped behind the hills and back to the blocs, I tried the river bed bloc, but it was still so warm, it was ripping my skin, I did it 2 section then I left it for cooler conditions. Then I went up to try Steppen Wolf 8b, I did all of the moves quickly and took a good fall of the top. I left if for the next day.

Day 2
We arrived at Magic in the afternoon, I was straight off to try a bloc that I had seen on the last trip. After 30 minutes or so I was falling off the finishing hold, pooh. Would leave it for the next day.

Day 1

I went to try Vecchio Leone only to find it in the sun with temps around 25-30 C, after 3 or 4 attempts I left feeling low. I tried Marilyn Monroe 8a which I did in 30 minutes or so, so happy about that , I then set to work on the straight up bloc, which I did all the moves on but the sun was coming on it. So it was off to Bergamo to pick up my friend Suzan who was coming out for a couple of days.

e9 spring collection

2007-04-13T11:22:00.000-07:00

well the good news is the spring e9 collection has hit the shops, for your local shop check out www.e9uk.com

Windy

2007-04-09T08:10:00.000-07:00

Well this morning it was back to the high balls. After the long walk in, we found it to be more than a little windy , still up for it i start to top rope it again, still finding it hard work, after a bit i link it again on the top rope, springer was also making good progress. The wind was a real issue at the top as you move on to the head wall.

I pulled the rope and had a go, found my self through the the hardest moves, but the wind put me off and climbed down a little and took the ride, my knees were not so happy about that. Another go this time i felt better, got all the way up to the head wall , but the wind was to strong so again a climbed down a little the took the ride again.

That was it, with a packed week come my only window i have as Wednesday evening lets hope the weather holds.

Fun Week

2007-04-07T09:00:00.000-07:00

Back in the UK is not always motivational, but after a good trip to Swiss. I was keen to try Isla De Encanta in the south lakes so Monday morning earlie to catch it in the best condition, after a little warm up I start to work on Isla De Encanta, which it got to say I think is a good problem, after an hour or so have my sequences and was ready for a link, this bloc has one of the sharpest hold on even though it never cut the skin it makes the end of two tips go dead. After a couple of attempts I hit the break well but did not hold it, this happened a couple of times till I could take no more from the sharp hold. So it was off back to Newcastle.#

I spent the rest of the week training and planning my next trip to Swiss, next Thursday can not wait. Then on Friday I was back to try Isla De Encanta, this time with smith and Springer, warmed up well and felt good then I took a funny fall and hurt my back again, I was pissed off to say the least, my back felt better after an hour so but could not twist in for the big move on Isla De Encanta. But I still managed to do a couple of other blocs so not a totally wasted trip.

Saturday I picked Springer up with the plans of going and trying this highball arête that we had spotted in the summer. We got to the bloc I gave it a clean off on the rope then sent Springer off to find the way, he did a couple of moves then seemed to be chalking blank bit of rock then he came down, after a few attempts and shouting at Springer, I found that I had done many of the move 3 hours later and I had linked it on the rope. With not enough pads we left only to be going back on Monday to hopefully adding another classic high ball to Northumberland.

Funny couple of weeks

2007-04-01T06:12:00.000-07:00

Birmingham world cup

In good shape is some times not enough, with the British team and myself climbing and looking stronger than ever it was a shock just to get one man into the semi.
Personal this marked the end of a long and fun comp life, during the comp I took the ride off the top of the last bloc, falling badly left me with a bad back, if only I had held the hold I would have gone through but that’s comps I guess.

Pic thanks to gravity

That week I work in Aberdeen route setting, and then came home to train for a master’s comp at climbing works, I had a accident when training and hurt my back and arm, I went to the master not really going to climb but warmed up ok and got through to the final finishing 4th which I was pleased with after the week I had had.

The next day it was off for some swiss bouldering. Me and smith off to the tinico valley where we had 6 days of climbing on some great granite, for a few days. Over this period I did 2 8a’s and 2 8a + ‘s and dropped the top of one of the best 8b I have ever been on, think I will be going back very soon. This was good to be getting back climbing again after working hard selling e9 and getting over the comps.

Think we all had a great time, what more can you ask for great rock, great weather and some good blocs tick, both me and smith cleaning up on blocs minutes before we drove to the airport.

This had this effect on smith

Good weekend

2007-03-12T10:18:00.000-07:00

Saturday i went out to curbar, with percy and lucy. warm up on the normal stuff then went why left high balling great fun apart from when you drop the top, percy not only happy with seeing me drop the top felt that he had to as well.

Sunday it was off high again , this time to moorside rocks to try super bloc, it was maybe a little warm up still i wanted to try it , after a couple of attempts i found my self high with the pocket and the undercut thinking about making the move, each time i would jumped off, then we went to burbage south just to get a bit of climbing in. then after all this the new pinky red circuit at climbing works

End of work

2007-03-08T23:57:00.000-08:00

This week i had my final couple of days selling, which meant that i could get back out on the crags, wednesday i was at Gear for Girls in Nortumberland which meant i could get back to woods to work on my projects and i made some good progress with the condition been pretty good.

Yesterday i had an appointment with v12, so i dragged Darren down to wales. After selling i popped into the cave, it was a little wet but always a great work out.

Doing Trigger Cut, Rock Atorcity and Luo ferrino all first go, then i spent some time working the middle section on Directors Cut, some thing that i got close to the year before last and i am keen to put to bed after birmingham so i think i might be spending a lot of April in wales. Then i tried In hell the lowest start to Rock Atorcity getting through the bottom in a couple of attempts i found my self totally powered out on Rock Atoricty, oh well a fun day out.

Rest day today and off to the peak for the weekend.

good weekend

2007-03-04T15:33:00.000-08:00

Yesterday team training at the climbing works i did 3 rounds of the world, on some great new blocs set by percy and ian. Left feeling well worked.

Today i was coaching rock solid the junior climbing club at rock antics check out the birthday cake of one my juniors tasted good as well.

Weekend yes please

2007-03-02T12:31:00.000-08:00

As a pro climber some would say that i was work shy, and normally this would be very true but with a full week of selling e9 and a very good boot demo at the Manchester Climbing Centre.
This on top of a shit loads of training to get into shape for the european championships in a couple of weeks.

This weekend i have a team training at The Climbing Works. bring it on, then maybe next week i will get out on the rock. hope so

New Vids

2007-02-27T10:13:00.001-08:00

http://www.youtube.com/profile?user=earlandrewearl

work work work

2007-02-27T09:57:00.000-08:00

After bad weather over the weekend up north its back to another week of work. Yesterday i was out on the road with my e9 samples, today i was setting at sunderland wall then coaching tonight.

Tomorrow night i will be a scarpa boot demo at Manchester Climbing Centre, so that people can get in the new scarpa range.

Busy week

2007-02-24T08:01:00.000-08:00

Well its been a full on week, with a boot testing session at Climbing Works for the new scarpa range with cretain models about to hit the shops, at the end of next week.

Also been out selling the fall collection of e9 clothes, so been mainly climbing on plastic this week.

with some great problems at climbing works and boulder uk , it not to bad a way to spend your evening .

Shut down

2007-02-17T13:36:00.000-08:00

Me and springer went to Callerhues to try and repeat a newish 7c+, after a few attempts i found myself lost trying to get on top of the bloc. After a couple of really bad falls i left it for another day.

Callerhues is a great high ball venue on great rock well worth a visit.

Blue Sky

2007-02-15T01:34:00.000-08:00

Yesterday morning i set off to Sheffield hope to climb outside but the met office paint a wet and wind picture so climbing works was looking like the venue.

Almost at Sheffield with a blue sky and it was not too warm. May it was going to be the day for Careless Torque, me gaz and percy and the pads,(even the big one from climbing works) were off on one . After a brief warm up and percy lowered down and chalked the top grips, it was on. Second go i found my self stood up and going for the top moves that turn out to be not so bad and found my self standing on the top of one of the best blocs in the peak.
Done Careless Torque ground up pretty happy.

Then we did Big Air and a good hard session at climbing works , all in all a great day out.

Dates

2007-02-12T13:26:00.000-08:00

Scarpa Boot Demo at Manchester Climbing Centre 28th FEb

Camp Harness testing session at The Leeds Wall 14th March

Team Training

2007-02-12T13:12:00.000-08:00

Saturday was a bouldering team training at boulder uk. A comp style session of 2 rounds of 6 blocs. Sunday i was coaching rock solid the north east and cumbria climbing club, at the leeds wall. All in all a busy weekend then today i was setting at sunderland wall for the monthly comp.

Pic of smith get ripped out of his mind.

the woods

2007-02-08T12:50:00.000-08:00

Weather

2007-02-08T12:40:00.000-08:00

Sitting in the f1 getting text from the uk saying the weather is great back home, all this when outside it pissing down, so we come home and its dumps a load of snow.

This morning i landed back in the newcastle and this afternoon i visted the woods and had a great day did allthe classic and had a look at some things i had tried last year. Conditions were great.

Font

2007-02-06T09:16:00.000-08:00

We went and had a play on karma today no luck for me but parry did it, good skills. The weather was ok not amazing hopefully the dry condition will stay. In the afternoon we went an did some classic blocs nice to climbing in font again.
Photo Percy

Home for a week

2007-02-05T10:13:00.001-08:00

After snowboarding it was a busy week of coaching but managed to get out a couple times, on the grit. Working on projects in the peak even with the hot condition i was making progress on careless torque by the end of sunday afternoon i was stood up and making progress towards the top.

Today it was off to font, leaving a dry newcastle and arriving to rain, although in the afternoon we did get out and dry a few things off, so we are hoping for a better day tomorrow.

Back from boarding

2007-02-05T10:13:00.000-08:00

Back from boarding

2007-01-28T08:17:00.000-08:00

Me and gaz went boarding for a few days in France, it was great fun and more importantly i am still in one bit. Hopefuly get out this week.

Past few days

2007-01-21T13:14:00.000-08:00

Sunday
Weather looked great in the peak, keen to get back on voyager , i set off from newcastle. Got to Leeds and the call from Percy to say the weather was shit, he was not wrong. So it was a day in climbing works. Did the new yellow circuit all 42 blocs, very dirty.

Saturday
Back up north i was looking to go high, but strong winds meant that i had to change my plans so me and springer went to try a project that i had tried some time ago. In some woods in the depths of Northumberland, a steep wall on pocketsand small edge, after a bit of working i pulled it together producing a powerful 8a unnamed as yet, spring is sorting out the video so it will be up soon.

Friday
Had a snow board lesson in the morning, then with blue sky it was off to burbage north to try voyager with Micky, although a little tired and battered after my lesson, i had a good session on it. Really is a great line just so hard on the skin.

out and about

2007-01-17T12:44:00.000-08:00

Yesterday great weather in the north, start to drive to the peak but got the call from Percy say it was shit, so turn off to Yorkshire where i had a fruitless couple of hours, then it was off to the north york moors to check out a couple of things, was really nice to be out on such a nice day.

Today i had a meeting with Steve at the mountain boot (scarpa), and yes the new shoe are due by the start of next month, also the new scarpa website will be live as of early Feb, i will keep you up to date.

then it was back to the lab with Sabby

This time i felt better on most of the test and Gaz and Dave were pushing hard, it was the last session for the 2 of them, however i have one left, check out the video to see what i have to look forward to.

Hopefully the weather will be good this weekend me and spring have a couple of high ball projects in Northumberland to get on so fingers crossed.

setting

2007-01-15T06:57:00.000-08:00

well i was right about the weather yesterday, at sunderland wall setting for a local comp at the minute, just been checking out some of my vids and found a great one of springer. I am out tomorrow so lets see what the weather brings.

In the lab

2007-01-13T14:21:00.000-08:00

Day in the lab, me gaz and dave where in the lab with sabby today it sure was a hard morning out, i am going back on wednesday will get some video footage of the pain we when through. Coaching tomorrow so the weather might be good

Weather

2007-01-12T12:56:00.000-08:00

Toddy is the first day i have trained since font, hopefully i will get out tomorrow but we will see what the weather will bring.

added a vid of la boule today

font

2007-01-07T09:16:00.000-08:00

2 day a go had a good trying kheops, until i nailed myself on the bloc behind it, so then i was off to climb and fill, some of the classic of the forest. this left me feeling like shit and up me been sick during the night, great when staying in an f1, the next day the weather was shit so it was a welcome rest day for me.

today the weather was bon, however i still feel weak as a kitten, but did some easy blocs hopefully tomorrow my last day will be a good on.e

more vids can be found on the link below.

www.youtube.com/results?search_query=earlandrewearl

springer

2007-01-04T09:59:00.000-08:00

he comes out from behind the camera, check out his pants
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8ZpLDUF3BIU

font day 4

2007-01-04T09:05:00.000-08:00

day 4

weather shit, springers neck got bigger 3 hands we think. After the rain we had a little play out, hope that the weather get better.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JXLympeU8Lg - earl slab fun

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hlKFcCsdxus - springer slab fun

day 2 and 3 in font

2007-01-03T12:29:00.000-08:00

Day 2

Worked on and 8b in the morning but got shut down, so between the shower it was off to try never never land 8a , gaz did it quickly leaving me pissing in the wind. After an hour or so i dropped the last move, not a happy bunny i did it a couple of attempts later.

see link for vid.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H4iUha9f2yM carnage 7b+

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=97wFdJ-uz7E never never land 8a

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cK0j49cZz0s never never land 8a

Day 3

Worked hip hop in the morning but it was not to be so off high balling and classic ticking.

check out the video clips of the team going high.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2gHvmFsY1VM lady big claques 7a+ (higher than ever before)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KogGZKEcR_k Appartenance 7c

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7jiNTi3Wtho L'Abbe resina (7c) circa 1907

Good day in font

2007-01-01T12:50:00.000-08:00

After the shit weather in the uk it was good to land in France to some good conditions, and a great start to the week long trip, i did Tigre and Dragron 8a ( one of the best blocs i have ever climbed) and then in the late afternoon did verdict 8a, so let hope the weather stay good.

check out some video clips

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fjU8JEw477w trigre and dragon
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5lSLEv_oOpM verdict

Wet weather in the peak

2006-12-31T05:03:00.000-08:00

After spending the week between Christmas and new year trying to get out on grit but spending most of the time at climbing works training due to it raining every time i went out. so its off to font tomorrow so finger crossed for good weather.